SAMURAI FASHION

Wielding swords, spears and longbows, the feudal armies of ancient Japan fought many a battle as the country endured centuries of civil unrest. Facing attacks from mounted archers and hand to hand combat, the thing that stood between life and death for a soldier was his armour. Distinctively Japanese in style, yoroi armour was widely used between the 9th and 14th century, and today, it can been seen on riders participating in the Soma Noma Oi, a festival which celebrates the civil wars of the past. Ensuring the festival participants dress as authentically as possible is Satoshi Tachibana, one of only five people remaining in Japan with the skills and knowledge to create and restore the yoroi of the Heian Period.

Made from hundreds of lacquered metal plates and leather panels woven together with brightly coloured cords, and decorated with gold and silver ornaments, the yoroi was in many cases an elaborate work of art. Despite this, the armour was practical as well, and the weaving of independent plates together allowed the soldier manoeuverability in addition to effective protection. One drawback, however, was that donning hisbattle armour could take a soldier up to an hour, with a yoroi weighing on average 10-12 kilogrammes.

With thirty eight years of experience behind him, Satoshi Tachibana of Soma City represents the third generation of yoroi makers in a family which has kept the art alive for over one hundred years. Downplaying his rare skills, Mr Tachibana recalls watching and helping his father work as a child, and although at first not keen to take up the profession, he decided in the end to keep the family tradition alive. With the Soma Noma Oi a major event in the region, yoroi owners are in abundance, and resultingly, restoration comprises much of his work. However, Mr Tachibana also receives orders for new armour, which he makes singlehandedly fromscratch. Due to this time consuming process and the high demand for repair work on existing yoroi, the wait for a new suit of armour is several years.

In describing the characteristics of the yoroi, Mr Tachibana singles out the kabuto, or Japanese style helmet, for special mention. Early kabuto came in many shapes and sizes; some with elaborate fixtures and others created in the likeness of animals' heads in order to intimidate the enemy. Kabuto in later centuries were also used in combination with metal masks which, unlike European helmets, displayed detailed facial features, even including, in some cases, a bushy moustache. The purpose of the masks was largely psychological - they were intended to scare the opponent while at the same time, not giving away the age and identity of the wearer.

With only a handful of yoroi restorers remaining in the country, Mr Tachibana has devoted much of his time to ensuring that his knowledge and skills will live on. He has taken on three students in the past, and has more recently turned his focus to creating a homepage about how to make yoroi, in the hope it will heighten interest in the armour. Mr Tachibana can also be found every year among the riders at the Soma Noma Oi, helping ensure that this important piece of Soma's heritage will also stay strong.